Cours Saleya

The moment of joyous panic in which you buy half a kilogram of marinated artichokes.





DSC_6960 cours-saleya-fleurs




Even with its colours, flavours, and heat headaches, the Cours Saleya markets in Nice’s vieille ville doesn’t get nearly enough credit, nor the attention, that it deserves. For most, it’s an accidental discovery – a wrong turn somewhere while looking for Parc du Château or that famous Negresco or that ridiculous gelato dealer boasting over 150 options (faced with which, your brain goes into overdrive and you end up ordering chocolate…).

I, on the other hand, have a fascination with market temperaments in every city. For all its romances, the majority of Paris’ marche aux fleurs on Île de la Cité is haughtily quiet and underwhelming, save a few gloriously overflowing and otherworldy stalls. And, having now exhausted Morocco’s medinas of note, with their constant sell sell sell, beautiful silks, orange juice and animal heads, I seem to have lost the desire to shop altogether. Cours Saleya is somewhere in between. There is something homemade and makeshift about the set-up (granted, once the stalls shut down at lunchtime, restaurants are quick to fill in the gaps with outdoor lounging tables), and the produce. All my systematic price comparisons and cost per kilo calculations are long lost somewhere up the street I don’t remember – the vendors are far too friendly (and thus pressing) for me to loiter, weigh up decisions from afar, second guess, or walk away altogether.

As a result, I sound myself with half a kilo of marinated artichokes, and Alex with the same weight in charcuterie.

I guess we have to buy just as many berries to balance out the salt, right?

Round the corner, away from the noise, find a corner, plant your feast, chow it down, be thankful that you didn’t choose body-con when rummaging for things to wear that morning.


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photos shot on Nikon D600 with 85mm lens

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Margaret Zhang 章凝 is an Australian-born-Chinese director, photographer, consultant and writer based between New York and Shanghai. Since establishing her website in 2009, Margaret has gone on to work with global brands including CHANEL, UNIQLO, Swarovski, YEEZY, Bulgari, Gucci, MATCHES, Under Armour, and Louis Vuitton in a wide range of capacities both in front of and behind the camera, while completing her Bachelor of Commerce/Bachelor of Laws at The University of Sydney. Margaret’s directing, photography, and styling has been employed by the likes of VOGUE, L’Officiel, Harper’s BAZAAR, NYLON, Marie Claire, GRAZIA and ELLE internationally. She has been listed in Forbes Asia’s 30Under30 and TimeOut’s 40Under40, and her work has been recognized as shaping the international fashion industry by the Business of Fashion BoF500 Index for the past four consecutive years. She went on to be the first Asian face to cover ELLE Australia. In 2016, she co-founded BACKGROUND, a global consultancy for which she specialises in Western-to-Chinese and Chinese-to-Western cultural bridging for a range of luxury, lifestyle, and brand initiatives. In 2017, she exhibited a series of 39 unseen photographic works as a solo show in Sydney, and premiered her first short film – a 15-minute exploration of her visceral relationship with classical music on both performance and abstract planes – to critical acclaim.

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