Every time my birthday rolls around, I make a point of seeing if the time has come for me to relate to Calvin Klein’s Ready-to-Wear. At 19, I’m yet to reach that point, and have come to the conclusion that the iconic house’s work is to be reserved for women standing at over six feet tall and/or for confident career women over the age of twenty seven. Carolyn Bessette Kennedy was both of these, and to say that I aspire to be so poised some day would be a wild understatement.
This is not to say, however, that I wasn’t absolutely taken by this season’s sculptural excellence. Ladies (and I suppose it would interest Gentlemen): the cinched waist is back. To offset 1980 shoulders and calf-skimming midi lengths, to draw favourable attention to a severe and plunging neckline, and to be a healthy companion to the most elegant parts of a woman’s body – the back and neck, obviously.
While I often wonder why designers don’t have a little more structural creativity with entire teams of hair and makeup artists at their disposal, this season’s show was so well cast that I didn’t even take the time to notice bare their faces and pre-adolescent side parts. In hindsight, I suppose the intention was for me to admire them – needless to say, all present were taken by Caroline Murphy’s competitive glow. And, of course, all hail The Kloss.
But you can see what I mean when I say that any such collection piece would actually make the youthful look younger. The A-line dresses would translate to school pinafore dresses on a smaller frame, and the impeccably tailored and belted coats would swamp a woman without the worldy age or stature behind or below her. The separates, perhaps, I could grow into. Or perhaps makeup is the answer.
Regardless, I’ll wait another decade.
And then we can talk, dear Calvin.